They say when in Rome, do as the Romans do, and when in Sevilla, do as the Sevillanos do, and that means going to a soccer game.
Sevilla has two soccer teams -- Real Betis Balompié in Palmera-Bellavista and Sevilla F.C. in Nervión. We went to Sevilla F.C. versus Atlético Madrid, and it was one heck of a game. Sevilla played extremely well, and considering that Atlético was favored to win, a tie was a pretty satisfying result. The crowds are absolutely crazy -- crazier than anything I've ever seen at any sporting even in the U.S. Everyone wears their red and white team scarf, and the die-hard fans (seated behind the goal) have some pretty nasty cheers. We had a blast. You just can't live in Spain for three months and not go to a soccer game. I also really want to go to a Betis game at some point, although after that long hike out to Nervión, I'm not really sure I want to walk all the way to Palmera-Bellavista. Perhaps it's time to learn how the buses work.
I was also lucky enough to be able to attend a flamenco show this week, hosted by my school. There were only 20 seats available, so obviously I got up ridiculously early and arrived at school at 8:30 am to sign up. So worth it. If you've never seen flamenco before, I can describe it to you in one word: intense. The show began with a solo performance by the tocaor, or guitar player. That guy by himself was incredible. Flamenco is played in the E Phrygian key, and for those of you not familiar with music, that's a pretty bizarre and complex key to play in. I'm fairly certain he was using some sort of witchcraft to produce that music. He was joined by the cantaora, or singer, whose voice was very uniquely beautiful. Flamenco music is full of emotion and strong vibrato that allows the singer's voice to be heard over the sound of the guitar and the dancer's shoes, which provide percussion. The cantaora and any dancers who aren't dancing at the moment clap along in rhythm with the music.
Then came the bailaoras. These dancers were incredible. They perform in long, heavy dresses with long sleeves and elaborate hairdos full of accessories -- not to mention the four-inch heels. The shoes serve the same purpose as tap shoes. The dancers use them to make percussive sounds on the floor as they spin and move around the small wooden platform used as a stage, all the while being very expressive with their faces and their arms (as you can see on my Videos page). They danced for several minutes each, and it's not exactly a low-energy dance. Any dancer will tell you the performance those incredibly talented women put on was quite a feat. You know I'll be taking flamenco lessons!